Travel Blog

In December 2021, Max and I decided to have our honeymoon in the bushes of Kruger National Park. We booked 4 nights at Makumu Safari Lodge, where the views stretched endlessly over the bush. After visiting many other lodges, I realized that this endless 360° view of the landscape is truly unique to this lodge.

The Unforgettable First Safari

That first safari was unforgettable. We were lucky to see all of the Big Five: lions, a leopard, countless elephants, rhinos, and buffalos. Our guide patiently taught us about their behavior—how elephants communicate silently through deep vibrations, how lions rely on teamwork, and how every creature plays a role in keeping the ecosystem alive.

Sundowner with Hyenas

But the moment that stays with me the most was our sundowner with hyenas. On one of our evening game drives, we stopped to enjoy drinks and snacks while the sun dipped low, painting the horizon in shades of gold and violet. As we settled into that quiet magic, a pack of hyenas appeared in the distance. At first, they watched us cautiously, then curiosity took over.

One young hyena began to approach. Slowly, hesitantly, she came closer—ten meters, then five, until finally she stood barely a meter away from me. I could see the texture of her fur and the shine in her eyes. For a moment, it felt as if time had stopped. She leaned toward the candle flickering on our table, curious about its smell, and quickly realized the flame was not to be touched. We all held our breath, caught between fascination and disbelief.

Our guide remained calm, as he had many encounters with this pack of hyenas. He advised us to stay still and avoid sudden movements. My heart was racing. When I leaned on my husband, the hyena was alerted, ready to run away. That’s when I realized: this animal was more scared of us than we were of it.

Magical Moments at the Lodge

When we returned from evening game drives, the lodge itself felt magical. Instead of any electrical light, hundreds of candles lit up the lodge, casting a warm, enchanting glow. On one special evening, they prepared our room with rose petals, a drawn bath, and a bottle of sparkling wine, making it feel utterly romantic and unforgettable.

Reflections on Nature

This safari made me reflect on how humans once lived much closer to nature than we do now. Since then, I’ve been fortunate to go on other safaris. Each one brought new stories, new animals, and new lessons. Yet none have matched the raw wonder of that first trip—the one that made me feel truly part of the wild.

Credit for the title image: https://www.makumu.com/

Safaris are a very special kind of trip and, for many, a once-in-a-lifetime experience. I fell in love with Africa many years ago and have since traveled through 18 African countries, spending more than 50 nights on safari in the African savanna. One of the biggest highlights for me has always been walking safaris. You experience the wilderness and wildlife in a completely different way compared to being in a safari vehicle: your senses are heightened—you see, smell, and hear more intensely. At the same time, you’re active, learning, and discovering things you would never notice from a car.

In this post, I’ll take you along on my journey through a walking safari in Hwange National Park in Zimbabwe and share some tips for anyone planning such an adventure.

1. Getting there via Lusaka, Livingstone, and Victoria Falls

Our trip began with Ethiopian Airlines via Addis Ababa to Lusaka (Zambia). We had deliberately chosen a budget-friendly option—it allows you to connect better with local people and experience the country more authentically.

After a day to acclimatize and stock up on supplies, we headed to the local Inter-City Bus Terminal, a bustling place with countless operators. While ticket prices were almost identical, departure times varied greatly. At first, we were sold tickets for a much later bus, but with persistence we managed to get last-minute seats on one that was leaving immediately.

The seven-hour journey from Lusaka to Livingstone offered fascinating glimpses of rural life along the way. Once there, we continued to the Victoria Falls Bridge—a quick stop, and of course, the obligatory bungee jump.

From there, we crossed the border on foot and reached our accommodation in Victoria Falls Town about 40 minutes later. The border crossing was calm and orderly—a welcome contrast to other border experiences I’ve had in Central Africa.

We stayed two nights in Vic Falls, explored the waterfalls, and then set off for our walking safari in Hwange National Park.

2. Packing List and Preparation

For a walking safari in the African bush, the right gear is essential – lightweight, practical, and complete. Here’s my recommended packing list:

Clothing & Footwear

• Neutral colors (khaki, brown, olive, grey); avoid bright colors or camouflage
• Seasonal, weather-appropriate clothes: lightweight, long-sleeved cotton shirts and long pants (great against sun, insects, and thorns)
• Sturdy, comfortable walking shoes suitable for warm weather and thorny terrain
• Highly recommended: light safari gaiters to protect against burrs and sticky seeds
• Layering is key: mornings and evenings can be cold—bring a fleece, windbreaker, and possibly a hat depending on the season

Sun & Dust Protection

• Wide-brimmed hat, sunglasses, plenty of sunscreen
• Buff or scarf to protect against dust

Daypack & other Essentials

• Carry only what you need during the day: water, snacks, camera, binoculars, insect repellent
• Headlamp (very useful for finding the bush toilet at night)
• Water bottle or hydration system
• Insect repellent
• Camera and binoculars
• First-aid kit and personal medication
• Malaria prophylaxis if advised (I personally don’t take it, for good reasons)
• Travel journal to record your experiences

3. Organizing the Walking Safari & The Team

We had found a local operator online. Our guide, Tom, had once been a farmer before Zimbabwe’s land confiscations, and he carried a wealth of experience. He was accompanied by his son – training as a trail guide – and a tracker. In addition, a support team met us at prearranged spots, setting up mobile tents and dropping off supplies. This meant we could travel light, carrying only our daily essentials.

Before setting out in Hwange, we received a thorough safety briefing—far more detailed than for game drives. Tom summed it up in one sentence:

“Only food runs away.”

He told us he had been forced to shoot three lions in his career, each time because tourists panicked and tried to run. He made us promise never to do that again—adding that if it happened next time, he’d let fate take its course. The message was clear: we definitely didn’t want to be the ones to test his resolve.

4. Days in the Bush – Hwange National Park

Each morning started early. We walked in single file: Tom with his rifle up front, us behind him – focused and silent. Communication was limited to subtle signals like whistles, taps, or snaps—sounds that wouldn’t startle animals.

This allowed us to study tracks, observe insects, and discover small wonders: shimmering birds, fascinating bugs, and plants that could be used as soap or toilet paper. We even learned how to estimate an elephant’s age from its dung. Impala herds often watched us cautiously from a distance.

From farther away, we also spotted larger animals: giraffes, zebras, wildebeests, and hippos.

By early afternoon, the heat slowed us down, but we always reached camp before sunset. During sundowners, we tended to small scratches and thorn pricks. Despite the night sounds of hyenas and the chill, we slept surprisingly well.

5. Walking Safari Highlights in Zimbabwe

African Wildcat – A lightning-fast encounter with one of the rarest sightings in the African bush. Even many veteran safari guides never get to see one.

Elephant Mock Charge – Once, we suddenly came face-to-face with an elephant about 20 meters away. He seemed just as startled as we were. His ears flared wide—then came the mock charge!

Fortunately, we were prepared. We crouched calmly, stayed still, and the elephant charged briefly before stopping, trumpeting indignantly, and turning away. We then slowly backed out of the situation.

The moment reminded me of an encounter with a mountain gorilla in Uganda who also mock-charged me. It’s something you never really get used to.

6. Summary & Recommendations

Hwange remains unforgettable for me, and I hope this story inspires others to try a walking safari. A few final thoughts:

Take safety seriously: Follow your guide’s instructions. If it’s your first safari, read up on how to behave around wildlife beforehand.

Protect nature: Check what your safari operator is doing for sustainability. Always follow the principle: leave nothing behind, take nothing with you.

Walking safaris offer a different kind of experience: more sensory, quieter, and deeper than vehicle safaris.

Preparation is everything: The right gear and clear communication with your operator help avoid unpleasant surprises.

The team matters: An experienced guide, tracker, and support crew make all the difference between mere adventure and a safe, meaningful experience.

Hiking the Torres del Paine O Circuit in Patagonia is one of the most unforgettable trekking adventures in the world. Over eight challenging yet rewarding days, this trail takes you through dramatic mountain passes, ancient forests, massive glaciers, and the iconic granite towers of Torres del Paine National Park. In this day-by-day trip report, you’ll find detailed insights, practical tips, and personal experiences from the full O Circuit. If you are more interested in the planning for the O Circuit at Torres Del Paine, please read our post here. Hope you enjoy the read.

Day 1 – Entrance → Campamento Serón (~13 km, 3-4 hrs)

The trek began gently, with rolling hills and wide-open meadows. We were full of energy on the first day and finished the hike in just 3 hours and 15 minutes — faster than expected, probably fueled by excitement for the adventure ahead.

When we reached Camp Serón, we found that most of the shady tent spots were already taken — a small lesson in arriving early. Shade is precious here, as the sun can be strong.
The camp itself was simple but welcoming. There was even a small kiosk where we treated ourselves to a burger and a cold beer — a surprisingly good way to celebrate our first night in the wilderness.

We were looking forward to seeing the stars at night, but it didn’t get truly dark until around 10:30 p.m. We wanted to sleep early to start our hike early the next morning — a challenge that, unfortunately, repeated itself every day.

Day 2 – Serón → Refugio Dickson (~19 km, 5–7 hrs)

The trail wound its way along a wide river, peaceful and shimmering in the sun. After a while, we reached a section with a wooden boardwalk laid over soggy ground, likely built to protect the fragile grass and small lagoons underneath.
From there, the trail narrowed dramatically into a very thin path, just wide enough for one person. On the right, the valley dropped steeply, while on the left, the mountain rose sharply. Although it was a little nerve-wracking, the stunning views made every careful step worthwhile.

Day 3 – Dickson → Campamento Los Perros (~11–13 km, 4–5 hrs)

Day three started with a steep uphill hike that led us to an incredible viewpoint overlooking the Grey Glacier. The scene was breathtaking. However, the wind hit us quickly. Ice particles flew through the air, stinging our faces and making it impossible to enjoy the view for more than a few minutes.

Afterwards, the trail leveled out for a while and then dipped slightly downhill as we continued toward Campamento Los Perros. The campsite, tucked between trees, offered a welcome refuge and was well protected from both wind and rain.

Finally, as evening approached, we were already thinking ahead. Knowing the upcoming hike would be a serious challenge made the camp feel a little tense, even though we tried to relax.

Day 4 – Los Perros → Paso John Gardner → Refugio Grey/Paine Grande (~17–24 km, 8–11 hrs)

We woke up at 5:30 a.m. The latest check-out from camp was 7:00 a.m. — no joke! The camp workers were strict, and they practically kicked us out to start the hike to the next camp.

At first, the day began with a short 5-minute stroll through the forest. It was a gentle warm-up before the real climb began. Soon after, the trail grew steep and we pushed our way uphill through the trees. Eventually, the forest thinned out and we found ourselves in an exposed, treeless zone. Our path was covered in loose stones, and for nearly two hours we climbed steadily on the slippery, rocky trail.

Reaching the top was worth every step. Grey Glacier stretched endlessly before us, a vast sheet of ice fading into the clouds. The view felt both infinite and otherworldly.

The descent turned out to be just as demanding. First came a steep downhill over barren, windswept slopes. Then the path led us back into the forest. At one point, we scrambled up a rocky section, and later we crossed two narrow bridges. The scenery along the way was breathtaking — glacier views, rugged cliffs, and wide valleys opening below us.

By late afternoon, we finally reached Camp Grey, the largest campsite so far. It offered warm showers, a welcoming restaurant, and even some couches — a rare luxury on this trek

Day 5 – Refugio Grey → Paine Grande (~11 km, 2.5–3.5 hrs)

After the long and exhausting climb over the John Gardner Pass, we treated ourselves to a slower morning. We slept in until 7:00 a.m. and only hit the trail around 8:00. The hike was an easy day — a gentle walk with no major climbs — and it took us just 2 hours and 30 minutes to reach Camp Paine Grande.
Lunch, however, was less exciting. For the fourth day in a row, we opened our lunch box to find the same sandwich. To this day, we’re not sure if it was chicken or tuna in some kind of orange-colored sauce. It had been tasty the first two days, but by now the sight of it was… well, not so thrilling anymore.

Day 6 – Paine Grande → Campamento Francés (~7.5 km, 2–3 hrs)

Today’s hike was short in distance but wild in experience. We faced the craziest wind yet — at one exposed crossing, with no trees on either side and a vast lake stretching out to the left, the gusts were so strong that we had to lie flat on the ground for a full minute before daring to get back up and run for cover between the trees. Patagonia’s winds are no joke.
Along this section, trekkers can choose between staying at Refugio Italiano or Campamento Francés (this choice must be made at the time of booking). We had booked Francés, which turned out to be a good decision despite its quirks.
There’s also the option to hike up to the Mirador Británico, a spectacular viewpoint in the French Valley. Unfortunately, we missed it this time.

Campamento Francés is built on a hillside, which means plenty of up-and-down walking within the camp itself. The restaurant is located in the valley, and while they offered a few simple sandwiches, anyone craving a proper hot meal needed to have reserved it well in advance — no walk-in orders accepted.

Day 7 – Campamento Francés → Central (~15 km, 5–6 hrs)

We started our hike from Francés and, after about an hour, reached Camp Los Cuernos. We took a short break there to refill our water bottles and have a quick look around. The common area looked really cozy, a place where it would have been nice to linger — but we still had ground to cover.
From there, we continued along the trail until we finally reached Camp Central. This was by far one of the most crowded camps of the trek, much larger and busier than the ones we had gotten used to. Despite the noise and activity, we decided to settle in for the evening, rest up, and prepare for our final hike the next morning.

Day 8 – Central → Torres del Paine Lookout → Exit (~18 km round trip, 7–8 hrs)

We had heard the weather would be warm and sunny, so the final hike to the Torres viewpoint was best done early. That morning, we woke up at 4:50 a.m. and were on the trail by 5:15, leaving our tent at Central behind.

The climb itself was magical. As we gained height, the sunrise lit up the valley, painting the mountains in golden colors. Along the way, we passed Camp Chileno and paused briefly to refill our water bottles. We felt energetic and motivated, and the ascent took us around 3 hours and 30 minutes, including a long break.

The last kilometers were the hardest. The rocky path became steeper and the climb felt demanding. Yet the reward was immense. At last, we reached the turquoise lagoon beneath the Torres, with the granite towers soaring straight into the sky. A few other hikers were already there, and it felt wonderful to share the view while enjoying some snacks and drinks.

On the way down, the sun grew stronger and the heat began to rise. We were very glad to have started early. Back at Camp Central, we took a quick shower, packed our bags, and caught the shuttle bus to the park entrance. From there it was a 1.5-hour bus ride to Puerto Natales, followed by another 3 hours to Punta Arenas — tired but happy, carrying home unforgettable memories of completing the full O Circuit.

From Santiago’s vibrant streets to the wild heart of Patagonia, our Chilean adventure was one for the books. Eight days on the O Trek took us through glaciers, windswept valleys, and cliffside trails, ending with a breathtaking sunrise at the iconic granite towers of Torres del Paine. Exhausted, exhilarated, and in awe of every step, Patagonia left us with memories that will last a lifetime.

Flying to Chile

Our adventure began with a long journey from Amsterdam to Santiago de Chile, flying with United Airlines via Houston. The connection was smooth, and even though the trip was long, the excitement of finally reaching South America kept our energy high. We made this trip in January 2023, the perfect summer season for Patagonia.

First Stop: Santiago

We spent our first two days in Santiago, soaking up the city’s vibrant atmosphere. Between wandering through its lively streets and enjoying the warm summer light, we indulged in two essentials: a perfectly mixed pisco sour and a plate of fresh ceviche.

For meat lovers, we highly recommend El Fogón de Momo, where the grilled meats are smoky, tender, and unforgettable. We paired our dinner with a Carménère — Chile’s signature red wine — called S7, a bold and fruity bottle worth remembering.

For foodies, Santiago also offers something truly special: Boragó, ranked among the World’s 50 Best Restaurants. We treated ourselves to a 12-course tasting menu, and it was an experience to remember. The food was unique, creative, and delicious, with incredible presentation that turned every plate into a little piece of art. A must-visit for anyone who loves fine dining adventures.

From Santiago to Patagonia

Our Patagonia adventure began with a 3-hour flight from Santiago to Punta Arenas on LATAM Airlines (we flew back later with Sky Airline — both were excellent options). From Punta Arenas, we caught a 3-hour bus to Puerto Natales, a small but lively town that serves as the gateway to Torres del Paine National Park. We stayed overnight, soaking up the last bit of comfort before heading into the wild.

Getting to the Trailhead

The next morning, we caught the early 7 a.m. bus to the start of the hike. Upon arrival, all trekkers must register before entering the park. This is the moment you choose your path — the shorter but still iconic W Trek (3–4 days) or the ambitious O Trek (8 days). Both routes are unforgettable, but the O Trek is a full circuit that takes you deeper into the park’s remote landscapes. We decided to go big and take on the full O Trek, ready for a challenge.

Planning & Booking

One thing to know about the O Trek: you need to book your campsites well in advance — at least six months before your trip. A limited number of people are allowed to start the hike per day. In addition, you must buy an entrance ticket to Torres del Paine National Park before entering. Don’t forget to print or download your reservations and entrance tickets — there’s no reliable cell service in the park.

There are several bus companies serving the park; we went with Bus Sur, which was reliable and comfortable. Whatever company you choose, book your bus tickets ahead of time to ensure smooth connections between Puerto Natales and the trailheads.

Food & Trekking Logistics

We pre-ordered our food boxes well ahead of time — each meal costing between $40 to $50 USD per person, which wasn’t cheap but meant we didn’t have to carry heavy supplies. The boxes usually included breakfast and a packed lunch with a sandwich, fruit, nuts, and energy bars.

Be warned — the further you hike from the starting point, the more “basic” these lunch boxes become. Our tip: pack a few extra protein or energy bars, and if you like, some tuna cans for backup.

Some people brought a tiny camping stove setup with pots, plates, and cutlery. They carried all their food themselves, so their bags were definitely bigger and heavier than ours. It was impressive but definitely a slower load to carry. You are only allowed to cook at the campsites. No open fire is permitted on the trek (one hiker once attempted to burn his toilet paper and ended up setting a large area of the reserve on fire — a stark reminder of how fragile Patagonia’s ecosystem is).

Some hikers even hired local porters to carry their bags. One of these men was like a road runner, trekking ahead in flip-flops! We tried one day to beat him to the campsite, but it was hopeless — he was just too fast.

Water on the Trail

You’ll drink a lot of water. The only refills are at the camps, often from the kitchen or even from showers/toilets. The water isn’t crystal clear — it has a slightly milky color from glacial sediments — and while we initially used purification tablets, the taste was unpleasant. We quickly switched to drinking it as it came. The upside? It was always cold and wonderfully refreshing.

Packing for Torres Del Paine

We tried to keep our gear as light as possible. Our home for eight days was a super-light MSR tent, paired with two thin inflatable mattresses and two sleeping bags. Max carried a 60L backpack, while mine was 40L — a size I was thankful for when the trail got steep. At times, it felt like even 40L was too much, but the lighter load made all the difference.

If you’re packing for the O Trek, I’d recommend: one pair of trekking pants, a pair of tights, a pair of shorts, one warm fleece, two T-shirts, a warm but thin pajama (I didn’t have one and slept in my tights — but I definitely wished for a loose PJ), a sun hat, a beanie, a warm jacket, and a waterproof shell. I had trekking shoes and a pair of sandals — perfect for relaxing after a long hike and even for one sunny day on the trail.

I brought more clothes than I needed and regretted carrying the extra weight. Less really is more out here.

We also had a small emergency kit (thankfully never used) and some paracetamol — a little extra peace of mind in the middle of Patagonia.

Final Thoughts

The O Trek challenged us with long days, unpredictable weather, and tired legs — but rewarded us with staggering beauty, solitude, and a feeling of being immersed in one of the last true wildernesses. By the end, we were sore, sunburnt, and windblown — but already dreaming of when we could return.

You can follow our O Track Torres Del Paine trip on a detailed day by day post here.