From Santiago’s vibrant streets to the wild heart of Patagonia, our Chilean adventure was one for the books. Eight days on the O Trek took us through glaciers, windswept valleys, and cliffside trails, ending with a breathtaking sunrise at the iconic granite towers of Torres del Paine. Exhausted, exhilarated, and in awe of every step, Patagonia left us with memories that will last a lifetime.
Flying to Chile
Our adventure began with a long journey from Amsterdam to Santiago de Chile, flying with United Airlines via Houston. The connection was smooth, and even though the trip was long, the excitement of finally reaching South America kept our energy high. We made this trip in January 2023, the perfect summer season for Patagonia.
First Stop: Santiago
We spent our first two days in Santiago, soaking up the city’s vibrant atmosphere. Between wandering through its lively streets and enjoying the warm summer light, we indulged in two essentials: a perfectly mixed pisco sour and a plate of fresh ceviche.
For meat lovers, we highly recommend El Fogón de Momo, where the grilled meats are smoky, tender, and unforgettable. We paired our dinner with a Carménère — Chile’s signature red wine — called S7, a bold and fruity bottle worth remembering.
For foodies, Santiago also offers something truly special: Boragó, ranked among the World’s 50 Best Restaurants. We treated ourselves to a 12-course tasting menu, and it was an experience to remember. The food was unique, creative, and delicious, with incredible presentation that turned every plate into a little piece of art. A must-visit for anyone who loves fine dining adventures.
From Santiago to Patagonia
Our Patagonia adventure began with a 3-hour flight from Santiago to Punta Arenas on LATAM Airlines (we flew back later with Sky Airline — both were excellent options). From Punta Arenas, we caught a 3-hour bus to Puerto Natales, a small but lively town that serves as the gateway to Torres del Paine National Park. We stayed overnight, soaking up the last bit of comfort before heading into the wild.
Getting to the Trailhead
The next morning, we caught the early 7 a.m. bus to the start of the hike. Upon arrival, all trekkers must register before entering the park. This is the moment you choose your path — the shorter but still iconic W Trek (3–4 days) or the ambitious O Trek (8 days). Both routes are unforgettable, but the O Trek is a full circuit that takes you deeper into the park’s remote landscapes. We decided to go big and take on the full O Trek, ready for a challenge.
Planning & Booking
One thing to know about the O Trek: you need to book your campsites well in advance — at least six months before your trip. A limited number of people are allowed to start the hike per day. In addition, you must buy an entrance ticket to Torres del Paine National Park before entering. Don’t forget to print or download your reservations and entrance tickets — there’s no reliable cell service in the park.
There are several bus companies serving the park; we went with Bus Sur, which was reliable and comfortable. Whatever company you choose, book your bus tickets ahead of time to ensure smooth connections between Puerto Natales and the trailheads.
Food & Trekking Logistics
We pre-ordered our food boxes well ahead of time — each meal costing between $40 to $50 USD per person, which wasn’t cheap but meant we didn’t have to carry heavy supplies. The boxes usually included breakfast and a packed lunch with a sandwich, fruit, nuts, and energy bars.
Be warned — the further you hike from the starting point, the more “basic” these lunch boxes become. Our tip: pack a few extra protein or energy bars, and if you like, some tuna cans for backup.
Some people brought a tiny camping stove setup with pots, plates, and cutlery. They carried all their food themselves, so their bags were definitely bigger and heavier than ours. It was impressive but definitely a slower load to carry. You are only allowed to cook at the campsites. No open fire is permitted on the trek (one hiker once attempted to burn his toilet paper and ended up setting a large area of the reserve on fire — a stark reminder of how fragile Patagonia’s ecosystem is).
Some hikers even hired local porters to carry their bags. One of these men was like a road runner, trekking ahead in flip-flops! We tried one day to beat him to the campsite, but it was hopeless — he was just too fast.
Water on the Trail
You’ll drink a lot of water. The only refills are at the camps, often from the kitchen or even from showers/toilets. The water isn’t crystal clear — it has a slightly milky color from glacial sediments — and while we initially used purification tablets, the taste was unpleasant. We quickly switched to drinking it as it came. The upside? It was always cold and wonderfully refreshing.
Packing for Torres Del Paine
We tried to keep our gear as light as possible. Our home for eight days was a super-light MSR tent, paired with two thin inflatable mattresses and two sleeping bags. Max carried a 60L backpack, while mine was 40L — a size I was thankful for when the trail got steep. At times, it felt like even 40L was too much, but the lighter load made all the difference.
If you’re packing for the O Trek, I’d recommend: one pair of trekking pants, a pair of tights, a pair of shorts, one warm fleece, two T-shirts, a warm but thin pajama (I didn’t have one and slept in my tights — but I definitely wished for a loose PJ), a sun hat, a beanie, a warm jacket, and a waterproof shell. I had trekking shoes and a pair of sandals — perfect for relaxing after a long hike and even for one sunny day on the trail.
I brought more clothes than I needed and regretted carrying the extra weight. Less really is more out here.
We also had a small emergency kit (thankfully never used) and some paracetamol — a little extra peace of mind in the middle of Patagonia.
Final Thoughts
The O Trek challenged us with long days, unpredictable weather, and tired legs — but rewarded us with staggering beauty, solitude, and a feeling of being immersed in one of the last true wildernesses. By the end, we were sore, sunburnt, and windblown — but already dreaming of when we could return.
You can follow our O Track Torres Del Paine trip on a detailed day by day post here.
